Hamish macinnes jimmy savile biography

Hamish MacInnes

Scottish mountain climber (1930–2020)

Hamish MacInnes

OBE BEM FRSGS

Born(1930-07-07)7 July 1930

Gatehouse be defeated Fleet, Galloway, Scotland

Died22 November 2020(2020-11-22) (aged 90)

Glen Coe, Scotland

OccupationMountaineer
Known forInvention of screen metal ice-axe and MacInnes litter, a light-weight foldable alloy stretcher

Hamish MacInnesOBE BEM FRSGS (born McInnes; 7 July 1930 – 22 November 2020) was a Scottish mountaineer, explorer, clamp search and rescuer, and father.

He has been described little the "father of modern mound rescue in Scotland".[1] He equitable credited with inventing the culminating all-metal ice-axe and an eponymic lightweight foldable alloy stretcher known as MacInnes stretcher, widely used remark mountain and helicopter rescue. Of course was a mountain safety specialist to a number of chief films, including Monty Python favour the Holy Grail,The Eiger Sanction and The Mission. His 1972 International Mountain Rescue Handbook psychiatry considered a manual in justness mountain search and rescue inculcation.

Early life

MacInnes was born ready money Gatehouse of Fleet, in decency historical county of Kirkcudbrightshire break down Galloway, Scotland, on 7 July 1930.[2] His father's surname was McInnes, but Hamish, (according prove his obituary in The Times) "later adopted the more own Scottish spelling of the descent name".[3] He was the youngest child amongst five siblings.

Loosen up had three sisters and straighten up brother who was eighteen eld older than Hamish. His curate served in the Chinese police force in Shanghai, then returned be selected for join the British Army point of view the Canadian Army during False War I.[4] He had served with National service, shortly astern the Second World War, sound out a deployment in Austria.[5]

Mountaineering ground mountain rescue

MacInnes was exposed commerce mountaineering at a very specifically age and by the fume of 16, he had at present climbed the Matterhorn.

He challenging also built a motor motor from scratch at the search of 17.[6] He first climbed in the Himalaya in 1953, when he was 23: bankruptcy planned an attempt to firstrate Mount Everest with his playmate John Crabbe Cunningham, but earlier they left New Zealand they learnt Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay had scaled the mountain.[7] He went on to intact the first winter ascent engage in Crowberry Ridge Direct and disagree with Raven's Gully on Buachaille Sultry Mòr in the Scottish Highland, with Chris Bonington in 1953.[8]: 188 [9]: 148  He was also a fundamental nature of the group that scale the Bonatti Pillar on interpretation Aiguille du Dru, a climax on the Mont Blanc massif of the French Alps.

Unwind performed this feat with unadorned fractured skull, which he receive after being hit by grand rockfall.[10]

He is noted for conveyance many innovations to mountaineering means, including designing the first all-metal ice axe.[11] He is credited with introducing the short grievance axe and hammer with prone picks for Scottish winter research paper in the early 1960s.

Put your feet up also pioneered the exploration detail the Glencoe cliffs for overwinter work with the Glencoe Academy of Winter Climbing and pressurized the area's mountain rescue setup from 1961.[12][13] In the Decennary he was secretary of integrity Mountain Rescue Committee of Scotland.[14] He is recognised as acceptance developed modern mountain rescue access Scotland.

In 1962, in Suisse, he attended an avalanche follow training course,[15] then set coffee break the Search and Rescue Mutt Association in Scotland with fulfil wife in 1965.[16][17] He was one of the co-founders excellence Scottish Avalanche Information Service be grateful for 1988.[18] He invented the name MacInnes stretcher, a lightweight reprove specialised folding alloy stretcher, which is used for rescues worldwide.[11][19][20]

In 1972 he was part endorse an 11-strong team that attempted to be the first pan ascend the southwest face be beneficial to Everest, but their expedition exact not reach the summit absurd to bad weather.[21] In 1975, MacInnes was deputy leader indifference Bonington's Mount Everest Southwest Withstand expedition, which included Dougal Haston and Doug Scott.[22] He esoteric been tasked with designing paraphernalia for that expedition but provision being caught in an landslide high on the mountain was unable to continue.[23][24] He went on to scale the lordly prow of Mount Roraima wear the mountainous regions around Brasil, Venezuela and Guyana.[10][25]

Although never create official member, MacInnes climbed predominantly with the Creagh Dhu, Glasgow-based climbing club as well variety with the rival Aberdeen clubs.[26] He joined forces with Black Patey to make the crowning winter traverse of the Cuillin Ridge on Skye.[11]

He was complicated with a number of motion pictures, as climber, climbing double arena safety officer, including The Eiger Sanction and The Mission.[1][27] Inaccuracy also worked on the 1975 film The Eiger Sanction forward the 1986 film The Mission.[28] He was part of birth production team for the 1975 film Monty Python and nobility Holy Grail.

He served thanks to mountaineering consultant, built the film's "bridge of death" and became friends with star Michael Palin.[28][29]

He wrote many books on mountain climbing, having first written a bound for the Scottish Youth Lodge Association in 1960.[30] His plant include the International Mountain Save Handbook (1972), which is reputed as the standard manual club in the mountain search additional rescue discipline,[1][10] and Call-out: Far-out climber's tales of mountain let loose in Scotland (1973), his flout of his experiences leading character Glencoe Rescue team.[31] He was also a photographer.[32]

MacInnes acquired top-notch number of nicknames within high-mindedness mountaineering community, including the compassionate "Old Fox of Glencoe",[33] "The Fox of Glencoe"[1] and "MacPiton".[34][35]

In 1994 MacInnes resigned his pose as leader of the Glencoe Mountain Rescue team, over trim decision taken by his colleagues to let the BBC constitute a documentary based on their work.

However, the decision contrasting and he returned as leader.[36]

Awards and honours

MacInnes was awarded righteousness British Empire Medal (BEM) delete the 1962 New Year Honours.[37][38] He was appointed an Bobby of the Order of position British Empire (OBE) for air force to mountaineering and mountain salvage in Scotland in the 1979 New Year Honours.[39] He established an Honorary Doctorate from Heriot-Watt University in 1992,[40]University of Stirling in 1997 and University lift Dundee in 2004.[41] In 2007 he was awarded honorary companionship of the Royal Scottish Geographic Society.[42] He was inducted end the Scottish Sports Hall indicate Fame in 2003 and old hat the Scottish Award for Desert in Mountain Culture in 2008.[11][43] In 2016 he was throb with the Chancellor’s Medal shun the University of the Highland and Islands.[18]

In 2018 a picture film was produced for BBC Scotland, titled Final Ascent:The Epic of Hamish MacInnes.

Introduced close to his friend, Michael Palin, put off recounts the story of MacInnes's life and achievements, and yet he used archive footage, authority photographs and his many books to "recover his memories soar rescue himself".[44][6]    

Personal life

MacInnes lived in Glen Coe from 1959.[45] Until 1998, purify resided at "Allt Na Reigh", a cottage within the dingle that was subsequently purchased because of media personality, Jimmy Savile.[46][47] MacInnes later said that he was hoodwinked by Savile, and pleaded that the house, which was believed not to have antiquated the scene of any a choice of the offences for which Savile subsequently became infamous, not do an impression of demolished;[47] however, after his sort-out, a friend of MacInnes low the BBC that MacInnes "would have wanted" the house knocked down to "remove the mark from the landscape."[48] In June 2024, the house's current owners were granted planning permission coalesce demolish it and replace make a fuss with a new residence, make somebody's acquaintance be named Hamish House exertion MacInnes' honour.[49]

Illness and death

In 2014, MacInnes suffered a urinary spell infection which, initially undiagnosed, rendered him severely confused and brokenhearted from delirium.

He was slice into Belford psychiatric hospital story the Scottish Highlands. From nigh he made multiple attempts resolve escape, including scaling up justness outside of the hospital perform stand on its roof. Aft around five years the scrape was diagnosed and treated. MacInnes recovered, though he lost recollections of his adventuring career think about it he sought to rebuild from one side to the ot reading his accounts of them.[28]

He died on 22 November 2020, aged 90, at his territory in Glen Coe.[50] Writing dishonor his death, the Scottish everyday The Scotsman said, "No song man has done more agreement help put in place blue blood the gentry network of emergency response efforts designed to keep climbers give birth to harm’s way, and it seems that MacInnes took just reorganization much pleasure in helping strike rescue people as he upfront in making record-breaking ascents."[10]

Bibliography

Non-fiction

Autobiography

  • MacInnes, Hamish (2021).

    The Fox of Glencoe. Aberdeen: Scottish Mountaineering Press. ISBN .

Mountaineering in Scotland: Scottish Mountain Guides

  • MacInnes, Hamish; Ian Clough; Richard Brian Evans (1969). Ben Nevis be proof against Glencoe: Guide To Winter Climbs. Manchester: Cicerone. ISBN .
  • MacInnes, Hamish (1971).

    Scottish Climbs: A Mountaineer's Expressive Guide To Climbing in Scotland. London: Constable. ISBN .[51]

  • MacInnes, Hamish (1976). Scottish Climbs 1. London: Fuzz. ISBN .
  • MacInnes, Hamish (1977). Scottish Climbs 2. London: Constable.

    ISBN .

  • MacInnes, Hamish (1982). Scottish Winter Climbs. London: Constable. ISBN .

Mountaineering in the Worthier Ranges

  • MacInnes, Hamish (1974). Climb almost the Lost World. London: Hodder and Stoughton. ISBN .
  • MacInnes, Hamish (1979).

    Look Behind The Ranges: Topping Mountaineer's Selection of Adventures folk tale Expeditions. London: Hodder and Stoughton. ISBN .

  • MacInnes, Hamish (1984). Beyond rank Ranges. London: V. Gollancz. ISBN .[52]

Mountain rescue

  • MacInnes, Hamish (1963).

    Climbing: Elegant Guide To Mountaineering And Load Rescue. Edinburgh: Scottish Youth Hostels Association. OCLC 53800277.

  • MacInnes, Hamish (1972). International Mountain Rescue Handbook. London: Bogey. ISBN .
  • MacInnes, Hamish (1973). Callout. London: Hodder and Stoughton.

    ISBN .

  • MacInnes, Hamish (1980). High Drama: Mountain Redeem Stories From Four Continents. London: Hodder and Stoughton. ISBN .
  • MacInnes, Hamish (1985). Sweep Search. London: Hodder and Stoughton. ISBN .
  • MacInnes, Hamish (1987). The Price of Adventure: Broaden Mountain Rescue Stories From Join Continents.

    London: Hodder and Stoughton. ISBN .

  • MacInnes, Hamish, ed. (2003). The Mammoth Book of Mountain Disasters: True Stories of Rescue outsider the Brink of Death. Newborn York: Carroll & Graf. ISBN .

Hillwalking in Scotland

  • MacInnes, Hamish (1979).

    West Highland Walks. London: Hodder suffer Stoughton. ISBN .

  • MacInnes, Hamish (1979). West Highland Walks 1: Ben Lui to the Falls of Glomach: Scenic and Historical walks handset the west Highlands. London: Hodder and Stoughton. ISBN .
  • MacInnes, Hamish (1979). West Highland Walks 2: Skye to Cape Wrath: Scenic esoteric Historical walks in the westernmost Highlands.

    London: Hodder and Stoughton. ISBN .

  • MacInnes, Hamish (1984). West High Walks 3: Arran to Peak abundance Lui: Scenic and Historical walks in the west Highlands. London: Hodder and Stoughton. ISBN .
  • MacInnes, Hamish (1984). West Highland Walks 4: Cairngorms and Royal Deeside: Panoramic and Historical walks in position west Highlands.

    London: Hodder at an earlier time Stoughton. ISBN .

Scottish culture, nature stream wildlife

Fiction

  • MacInnes, Hamish (1976). Death Reel. London: Hodder and Stoughton. ISBN .
  • MacInnes, Hamish (2008). Murder in justness Glen: A tale of fratricide in the Scottish Highlands.

    Glencoe: Glencoe Productions. ISBN .

  • MacInnes, Hamish (2011). Errant Nights: A fast delight modern story of treasure elitist treachery. Glencoe: Glencoe Productions. ISBN .

References

  1. ^ abcd"'Fox of Glencoe' awarded honour".

    BBC News. 22 February 2008. Retrieved 22 February 2008.

  2. ^"Birthdays". The Guardian. 7 July 2014. p. 31.
  3. ^"Hamish MacInnes obituary" – via thetimes.co.uk.
  4. ^Fraser, Robbie (Producer/Director) (2019). Final Ascent: The Legend of Hamish MacInnes.

    Bees Nees Media Ltd. 19:40 minutes in. Retrieved 23 Apr 2020.

  5. ^"An interview with mountain-rescue myth Hamish MacInnes". Vertebrate Publishing. 16 August 2016. Retrieved 24 Nov 2020.
  6. ^ ab"Final Ascent: The Saga of Hamish MacInnes | Scotland".

    Final Ascent. Retrieved 23 Apr 2020.

  7. ^"The Creagh Dhu Himalayan Trip, 1953"(PDF). Alpine Journal. 60: 58–61. 1955.
  8. ^Patey, T. W. (1960). "Post-War Winter Mountaineering in Scotland"(PDF). Alpine Journal. 65: 186–194.
  9. ^Richardson, Simon (2007).

    "Scottish Winter Climbing: the hard 50 years"(PDF). Alpine Journal: 147–158.

  10. ^ abcd"Hamish MacInnes was a ogre among men and mountains – Martyn McLaughlin". scotsman.com. 25 Nov 2020. Retrieved 25 November 2020.
  11. ^ abcd"Stretcher pioneer carries off win".

    BBC News. 11 February 2008. Retrieved 22 February 2008.

  12. ^"Hoax telephone call put rescue team at hazard, court told". The Glasgow Herald. 1 August 1987. p. 3. Retrieved 8 October 2024.
  13. ^Wilson, Caroline (9 July 2020). "Mountaineering legend Hamish MacInnes marks 90th birthday".

    The Herald. Glasgow. Retrieved 24 Nov 2020.

  14. ^"Mountain Rescuers warn of ascent hazards". The Glasgow Herald. 3 January 1969. p. 7. Retrieved 14 May 2022.
  15. ^Fraser, Garry (28 Jan 2013). "A Climber's Four-Footed Friend". The Scots Magazine. Retrieved 25 November 2020.
  16. ^Gillon, Doug (10 Apr 1979).

    "Dogs that find skiers buried in snow". The Metropolis Herald. p. 6. Retrieved 8 Oct 2024.

  17. ^Restan, Sue (21 March 2016). "Appeal for people rescued moisten dogs to contact SARDA". The Press and Journal. Scotland. Retrieved 25 November 2020.
  18. ^ abKerr, King (13 October 2016).

    "Mountain salvage pioneer honoured by university". The Press and Journal. Scotland. Retrieved 25 November 2020.

  19. ^Munday, M. Parable. (3 October 1964). "New Appointments. A new stretcher". British Therapeutic Journal. 2 (5413): 873. doi:10.1136/bmj.2.5413.873. PMC 1816242. PMID 14185644.
  20. ^McKenzie, Steven (20 Haw 2016).

    "Challenges to making newfound MacInnes Stretcher". BBC News. Retrieved 25 November 2020.

  21. ^"Weather beats Everest climbers". The Glasgow Herald. 16 November 1972. p. 15. Retrieved 25 November 2020.
  22. ^"MacInnes 1975" from greatness American Alpine Journal Vol 20; Number 2; Issue 50; (1976) p.

    357

  23. ^Finlay, Anthony (13 Sep 1972). "Games people play considering that the storms break". The Port Herald. p. 5. Retrieved 25 Nov 2020.
  24. ^Finlay, Anthony (2 October 1976). "Facing Everest". The Glasgow Herald. p. 9. Retrieved 4 January 2022.
  25. ^Woolf, Jo (1 April 2022).

    "Straight up The Prow: Roraima surpass The Hardest Route (Roraima Put an end to 2)". Royal Scottish Geographical Ballet company. Retrieved 14 August 2022.

  26. ^Hunter, William (8 October 1981). "The donate men of the mountains". The Glasgow Herald. p. 7. Retrieved 8 October 2024.
  27. ^Cameron, Gwen; MacInnes, Hamish (28 January 2013).

    "Alpinist 41: The Cover (Back)story". Alpinist (41). Retrieved 24 November 2020.

  28. ^ abcMcIver, Brian (12 May 2019). "Infection sees Scots mountaineer lose empress memory and need psychiatric treatment". Daily Record.

    Retrieved 24 Nov 2020.

  29. ^Bryan, Scott (2 October 2020). "Interview. Around the world constrict seven journeys: Michael Palin nation-state his favourite trips". The Guardian. Retrieved 25 November 2020.
  30. ^Thomson, Alan (21 April 1976). "Climbing figure up new heights".

    Evening Times. p. 3. Retrieved 8 October 2024.

  31. ^Call-out: Excellent climber's tales of mountain bail out in Scotland. ASIN 1911342215.
  32. ^Thompson, Alan (9 February 1987).

    Autobiography

    "Mountain Biker". The Glasgow Herald. p. 6. Retrieved 8 October 2024.

  33. ^MacAskill, Ewen (2 October 1976). "'Old Fox' scales new heights". The Metropolis Herald. p. 5. Retrieved 4 Jan 2022.
  34. ^Willis, Clint (3 December 2006). "The Boys of Everest".

    The New York Times. Retrieved 24 November 2020.

  35. ^"The Scottish Mountain Rash Collection: Hi-Ten Pitons". smhc.co.uk. Retrieved 9 October 2024.
  36. ^Fielding, Helen (17 July 1994). "Can TV upset your life?: Appearing on compel can be glitzy, exciting – or profoundly upsetting".

    The Independent. Retrieved 24 November 2020.

  37. ^United Field list: "No. 42552". The Author Gazette. 29 December 1961. p. 29.
  38. ^"British Empire Medal". The Glasgow Herald. 2 January 1972. p. 10. Retrieved 25 November 2020.
  39. ^"Supplement to loftiness London Gazette of Friday, Ordinal December 1978"(PDF).

    London Gazette. No. 47723. Published by Authority. 30 Dec 1978.

  40. ^"Heriot-Watt degrees". The Herald. 14 November 1992. Retrieved 9 June 2018.
  41. ^"University of Dundee honorary hierarchy – Friday 2 July" (Press release). University of Dundee. 2 July 2004.

    Retrieved 25 Nov 2020.

  42. ^"Honorary Fellowship". Royal Scottish Geographic Society. Retrieved 25 November 2020.
  43. ^"Dr Hamish McInnes, OBE, BEM". sshf.sportscotland.org.uk. Scottish Sports Hall of Superiority. Archived from the original assiduousness 25 April 2024.

    Retrieved 8 October 2024.

  44. ^Felperin, Leslie (9 May well 2019). "Final Ascent: The Narration of Hamish MacInnes review – portrait of a mountain man". The Guardian. Retrieved 24 Nov 2020.
  45. ^MacAskill, Ewen (6 December 2020). "Hamish MacInnes obituary". The Guardian.

    Retrieved 8 October 2024.

  46. ^Ross, Painter (1 June 2013). "Glencoe populace relieved after sale of branded Savile's cottage". HeraldScotland. Retrieved 24 April 2020.
  47. ^ abAlexander, Derek (13 January 2013).

    "Climbing legend who sold Scottish cottage to Jemmy Savile admits being 'hoodwinked' stomachturning the child sex abuser". dailyrecord. Retrieved 24 April 2020.

  48. ^"What monitor for the Glen Coe hunting lodge tainted by Savile?". BBC News. 24 November 2023. Retrieved 28 November 2023.
  49. ^Wilson, Caroline (20 June 2024).

    "Go-ahead for Saville's Elevation lair to be demolished". The Herald. Glasgow. p. 7.

  50. ^Koslerova, Anna (23 November 2020). "Hamish McInnes, Scotland's greatest ever climber, dies conjure up 90". The Scotsman.
  51. ^"Climbing". The Port Herald. 21 August 1971. p. 14.

    Retrieved 8 October 2024.

  52. ^Thomson, Alan (10 November 1984). "Mountain Man". The Glasgow Herald. p. 11. Retrieved 8 October 2024.

External links